Olivia hunting for food on the beach.
Nearing Dominica
What a great time we've had here. Even though we have survived rain, rain and more rain, it's still be a beautiful place to experience and one of the last unspoiled natural tropical rain forests in the Caribbean. Our first few days were just hanging around Portsmouth in Prince Rupert Bay. As we work our way south, Dominica is the first island that has what have been termed "Boat Boys" These are not boys at all, but rather full grown men coming from a variety of backgrounds. They are guys who come out to meet you in their small wooden boats as you near the island and they basically lay claim to you and become your personal valet/tour guide while you're here. They will do everything from arrange tours to getting fresh fruit or bread, taking your garbage or whatever else you need...for a small price. Some even paddle out to the boats on surfboards to sell Mangoes, coconuts or passion fruit they've just picked. While some seem a little questionable, most are very hardworking, respected locals trying to earn and honest living. Our guy was Albert and we just loved him. He's a certified tour guide and has been here all his life. He's been doing tours on the Indian River for 28 years, so we were thrilled to do this trip with him...and he didn't disappoint. We learned more about the river than we thought there was to know and any question, no matter how seemingly insignificant, he was able to answer. The river trip meandered up as far as boats can go to a bush bar that served "Dynamite Punch" and sold it by the bottles - yes, we definitely took a bottle back to the boat. Crazy stuff. Many of the scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean II were filmed there and you can sure tell how much the islanders care about preserving this pristine environment.
Incredible vegetation in the jungle.
Grass hut near the Bush Bar on the Indian River.
The Amazing Indian River.
Buttress Roots on the trees.
The following day we had more rain and the cabin on the boat gets pretty small you're stuck inside for days on end, so we got together with Charlie, Maureen and their kids Beth and Brenden from Kamaloha, threw some snacks, beers and towels in a bag and found a great stretch of beach that no one was on. Just as we were pulling into the beach, we spotted Susie from Spirited Lady hanging out with one of the locals and she invited us to hang out there. The kids had a great time playing in the soft, black, sparkling sand and the locals entertained us with their talents. "Shorty" lives in a hut on the beach and rents Hobie Cats for a friend. He showed us how to peel, split and roast coconuts on the beach and Andrew made each of the kids the most beautiful little birds out of palm fronds. It turned out to be the best rainy day we've ever had.
Back in a previous post, I may have mentioned one of the great books I read that really inspired us and helped us learn what we might expect on this trip. The book is called "An Embarrassment of Mangoes" and is written by Canadian author Ann Vanderhoof, and is about how her and her husband Steve did what we are doing and basically put their lives on hold for 2 years in the late 90's to explore these warmer waters (they have since packed up lock, stock and barrel and are now out on Receta indefinitely). It's a great read and I brought it with us on the boat mostly for all the great Caribbean recipes made with local ingredients one can find through the island chain that she has included in each chapter. Anyway, we were just delighted to discover that they happened to be anchored in the very same bay we were in about 6 boats away! I couldn't stuff my book into a baggie and jump in the dingy fast enough over to their boat, Receta! We were thrilled to meet Ann and Steve and excited to learn that she has written a second book called "The Spice Necklace" that will be released this June. I'm now the proud owner of a personally signed copy of "An Ambarrassment of Mangoes".
Personally autographed by Ann Vanderhoof!
The best part of our trip to Dominica was visiting with our new friends Stanley, Gail and their niece Chenise (sp?). Ron's brother and sister in law hooked us up with some friends they have that live here. Stanley is a native of Dominica and Gail is from Canada and has been married to Stanley for 18 years. While they now call Dominica their home, they spent several years on Vancouver Island also. They kindly invited us to their hand crafted "treehouse" up the Layou River on the edge of the jungle. So... we rented a beat up, right hand drive jeep, drove on the left side of the pot hole laden road and braved our way into the mountains. I don't think words and/or pictures can ever describe the heart stopping, stunning beauty of the environment they live in. They live a very simple life without electricity or running water, no fridge or washer and dryer, no TV or internet...and they lack for absolutely nothing. Their adorable home is both comfortable and spacious enough for their needs and their land provides them with more food than they could ever use including mangoes, grapefruit, breadfruit, bananas, guava, passion fruit, limes, cherries, and that's just some of what grows above the ground! Very near to their home is a spring in the rocks that provides the cleanest, purest drinking water we've ever tasted. To support their lifestyle, they process cocoa bricks (that make the most heavenly cocoa tea) from the plants on the island and demonstrate their many other talents to some of the cruise ship passengers that pass by their way in the mountains. I had a few moments to sit quietly alone in the yard and it was hard not to be moved at the sight, sounds and smells of the environment that provides for them, entertains them and soothes them. They were such wonderful, gracious hosts and Gail prepared a local chicken, rice and fig (fried green bananas)meal that was truly one of the best meals I've had since leaving home. Gail and Stanley: if you're reading this, thank you once again so much for your kindness and generosity - we can't wait to see you again on our way back!!
New pals having lunch together.
Stanley, Gail and Chenise
The "Treehouse"
Stanley demonstrating the process of coco pod to coco brick.
The icing on the cake is that today (May 20th) after 113 days, six countries and nine islands, WE FINALLY SAW DOLPHINS!!! As we sailed in the lee of the island from Portsmouth to Roseau, I spotted one about 30 yards off the starboard side. In the next blink, there were six or so and they were right beside the boat and jumping through the water at the bow! I scrambled down into the boat to grab the camera but as soon as I came up they were gone just as fast as they appeared. The whole sighting was about 15 seconds, but what a thrill! I squealed so much that I jolted Olivia out of her cockpit nap and she even caught sight of one too! Hopefully, that will have been the first of many dolphin encounters ahead of us.
Hanging with my pals
No comments:
Post a Comment